There's a bit of a renaissance going on in my head about how I shoot the waves I live near. For example I avoid shooting this one from the water because I always get sucked so far out to sea and miss half an hour getting back in. When it's big I might get two waves an hour because of this.

I'm thinking I need to take these chances regardless, especially when it's big. 

Anyway, yesterday wasn't big, or good and I should really have just surfed it.